Kep - a unique coastal retreat

An idyllic coastal location backed by hills covered with lush jungle, Kep faces across the Kampot Bay towards the Bokor Mountain escarpment, and across the kep Bay toward the border towns of Ha Tian in Vietnam, with the sun setting on an ocean horizon in between. 

Established in 1908, Kep was originally built as a retreat for the French colonialists. For sixty years it thrived as the Khmer’s favorite coastal holiday resort, with its heydays in the 50s and 60s until it fell into ruin-especially after the Khmer Rouge when locals in need of money and food started to dismantle the old villas. Kep is currently experiencing a touristic revival. 

Now no longer the little sister to Kampot, Kep offers the perfect destination for a visitor to spend a peaceful, lazy and undisturbed vacation, while also providing opportunities for energetic activities if desired.

Rabbit Island - Koh Tonsai

Rabbit Island is 5Km of the coast and popular destination, either for a day on the beach oran overnight stay. 

Aprivate Boat costs $20 return for 1 to 6 people, so sharing can cut the cost. Boats leave from the Pier which is 3 km east from Kep Beach. There are plenty of boats, and the trip takes a leisurely 25 minutes. Guesthouses will arrange tickets if you prefer. Returning the following day or later adds +/- $2,5 pp to your boat trip. 

There are about 30 basic huts on the beach with mattress and mosquito net from $5 a night and also a number of huts selling cold drink / beers and Khmer food 

Of course weekends attract more visitors. A trail around the island starts at the end of the main beach past the small boat pier and the first half of the 6Km trail is easy to follow. The trail always starts again at the end of a beach, but after the second beach it becomes a little overgrown and more difficult to follow and you will find yourself crawling ujder a few branches and dodging some thorny bushes-a trek for old clothes. The last stretch is over rocks, so good footwear is necessary. The trek doesn’t involve any hill climbing and takes about 2-3 hours with a few breaks. Unfortunately, some serious developments are on the way, so hurry up to enjoy the last authentic moments of this truly relaxing gem of a getaway off Cambodia’s coast.

Angkoul Beach - a hidden retreat

The easiest way to get to this pleasant stretch of forgotten beach is to follow the road to the Ha Tien border crossing-total 24.5 km. Once you arrive at the salt fields ask ch’nay sa’mot Angkoul? (=Angkoul Beach), and they will happily point the way. Alternatively take the shortcut from Kep (15 Km): east of Kep market is a school on the right, there is two street food vendors with red plastic chairs. Turn right and this dirt road will take you to the salt flats. Directions are a little vague here as there are several tracks leading to the left and right. Look out for first red and then blue signs. The general rule is that you are heading for the hill in the distance tone the coast. After dirt and gravel you will arrive at a quaint fishing village with lots of traditional orange and green painted boats. A good place to take a break. More salt flats and the a small ditch with a few planks across as a bridge, here turn left and follow the horseshoe road around the hill. Angkoul Beach is Mostly deserted, a few vendors but the rest of this sandy stretch is yours. And that makes the journey worthwhile. Currently a new road is being developed long the ocean-side which will lead from Kep Boat Pier to Angkoul/Ha Tien.

Caves and Caverns

There are a number of caves surrounding Kep. The most popular of which is what was a large circular cavern now open to the sky, with its roof having collapsed over a million years ago. Access is through a tunnel at the side of the limestone formation. This cave is next to Kiriseila Pagoda in Kampong Trach, 30km from Kep Beach. 4km on the left before KT is Phnom Salei, and 326 steps take you to the top for a spectacular view of the countryside. 

Phnom Salei, has several caves to explore, the path winding its way up the hill to a stupa atop, with stunning views of the Bokor mountain escarpment. This complex is also known as white elephant Cave, a reference to the shape of a limestone formation at the vase of the main cave. It’s 10km from Kep Beach, turn west of the White Horse Statue, signposted Wat archway after 1.5km. 

Phnom Ch’nork has Pre-Angkorian ruins set within a limestone cave, its brick structures dating back to the 6th century ancient state of Funan. It’s located 24km from Kep Beach. Turn right 8km west of White Horse Statue.

Good footwear and a flashlight are a must when exploring all of the caves, and be aware of broken stairways, low ceilings and slippery rocks.

The Not So Secret Lake

About 8km from the White Horse statue, you can find the so-called “Secret Lake”, locally known as “Tomnop Tek Krolar” Established through hard labour under the Khmer rouge regime, this irrigation dam, set perfectly in between the mountains and the rice paddies, provides the perfect location for a lazy afternoon on one of the many bamboo platforms. Tubing, swimming and even water peddle cycles are the leisure activities on offer. Snacks, food and drinks are available.

Drive north to the White Horse, turn left onto National Road 33 towards Kampot. Take a right (after +/- 4km) through the third archway, counting from the White Horse. Continue on this dirt track, through the villages and rice fields for another 5km.